spaaremaa
I wrote a little piece on Saaremaa for The Baltic Times last week: ‘Spaaremaa’: Estonia’s Island Getaway
For some reason they don’t include photos with the online version, so here ya go:
25 May 2007
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Yes, Spaaremaa, that’s exactly right! 3 new spas this year alone! But you didn’t mention the interesting new architecture of the Arensburg Hotel’s new spa extension, or the new wing of the Johani Hotel. Go Spa is building new apartments right on the waterfront, big project that! Frankly, the food is aweful at the places you mention, and Panga is disappointing, don’t bother with any of them. I will soon put my recommendations for great places to visit in Saaremaa on the GoodKaarma blog… Other significant highlights worthy of attention (but missing from your feature) are the new organic restaurant Saaremaa Maheköök (Saaremaa Organic Kitchen) which is the first truly organic restautrant in Estonia, and the very popular GoodKaarma soap cottage industry & cafe (which is close to Kaali Meteorite Crater). But Spaaremaa, yes, totally!!! Another favorite nickname that’s Saaremaa related: Kuratsaare (if you know Estonia’s most significant swearword, then you get it…).
Comment by steve — 26 May 2007 @ 20:48
I must disagree with Steve’s comment that the banks aren’t worth visiting - I suspect he is a nature lover to some degree given his company’s mission, and as such would expect the beauty of the banks to appeal to him. I think it’s a great place to visit for a relaxing picnic or just to get away from the flat lands.
As for the restaurants, I only see one mentioned - La Perla - and having visited it several times, I think it has a better steak than any you can get in Tallinn (tops what used to be my favorite - the gone-down-hill Contrevento). Does Steve’s own café that he plugs have that (I find it odd that he calls his own place popular)?
I agree that Arensburg Hotel’s new extension is unique, but it doesn’t have a sea view (with so much coastline, why build a spa anywhere other than by the sea). I don’t think Johani Hotel really rates as much – maybe it’s too soon to tell what they have in store with the new concrete slabs that are up, but the old part looks shoddy to me with the exception of the “stables.”
In any event, Spaaremaa is a great place to get away, so I suggest everyone gives it a try.
Comment by Jurist — 28 May 2007 @ 18:06
Oops. I see that I have caused some confusion.
My apologies to you Jurist for misrepresenting myself, but I wasn’t referring to LP as you suggest.
In fact, I like La Perla a lot and have eaten many many times there over the last 3 years.
I was always especially fond of the mussels.
I rattled off my previous post rather fast, and wasn’t thinking of LP at all.
Rather, I was venting some frustration over the generally low standard of cuisine available in most places. The article pushed a hot button: the all too common dining out experience of poor customer service & unimaginative menus that never change.
This is exactly why I am involved in starting a restaurant here in Saaremaa. There aren’t enough good places to choose from. I can’t take it anymore!
Before now I always went to GoSpa & La Perla for reliably great food. Now there is also Saaremaa Organic Kitchen (Saaremaa Maheköök) - so you like steak? Ever tried grilled organic beef steak? I don’t think you’ll be disappointed. (Oops, another cheeky plug, sorry I just can’t help it.)
My Estonian friends are usually the ones to make far more noise about not enough good restaurants in Estonia than me,
but only I manage to come out sounding like I don’t like one of the few good places! Just great. I don’t know how I did it. It’s a peculiar talent.
Oh well, I hope you take some solace from the fact that I have no intention of starting on a career as a food critic!
And that even though I “made a meal” of expressing myself clearly, my real name is next to the post. Accountability isn’t so bad.
In light of all this, and following your suggestion, I see that a picnic at Panga could be just what I need to slow down and make more considered posts in future. So my thanks to you Jurist.
Comment by steve — 12 June 2007 @ 8:46
Thanks very much for your comments, Steve! And sorry I haven’t had time to write the reply you deserve… I suppose my article pushed a button for you because it didn’t mention restaurants aside from LP? I think bad food is a problem in most of Estonia’s restaurants, and that’s not even mentioning the terrible service. There’s a reason I cook most of my own meals! Anyway, next time I head to Saaremaa, I’ll check out your suggestions.
P.S. I’ve met more Steves in Estonia than I recall meeting in the U.S. Estonia must be a Steve-magnet!
Comment by rachel — 19 June 2007 @ 21:04